Balenciaga Summer Collection 2023: Paris Fashion Week in the Dark
The lights go out. The floor transforms into a swamp of mud and darkness. Models trudge through knee-deep, dark water — and the audience holds its breath. What sounds like an apocalyptic movie scene is the latest Balenciaga show on the Paris Fashion Week: raw, provocative and beautifully unsettling. Balenciaga once again delivers a fashion show that goes far beyond fashion — and redefines the industry.
The Show: A Mud Bath as a Statement
Those who know Balenciaga know this: a conventional runway presentation is not to be expected. Creative director Demna (real name: Demna Gvasalia) stages his shows as total works of art, blurring the boundaries between fashion, performance art and social commentary. The current summer collection is no exception.
The location: a huge, dimly lit hall in Paris, whose floor is completely covered in dark sludge. No traditional runway — instead, the models trudge through a muddy, faintly neon-lit scene reminiscent of the American hinterland: Lost Highway meets Haute Couture. For everyone familiar with
The atmosphere: horror aesthetics meet luxury fashion
The stage design seems borrowed from a David Lynch film. Mist, fog, deep bass moans — and in the middle of it all: immaculate outfits made from high-quality materials, seemingly defying the harsh conditions. The contrasts are deliberately chosen. Dirt and elegance. Decay and perfection. This tension is what sets Balenciaga apart from other houses. Anyone following the development of the
The comparison to previous shows
Following the legendary Balenciaga x Simpsons collaboration, in which Demna used pop culture as a mirror of society, the current show takes a darker route. Whereas the previous show was colourful, ironic and accessible, this one is deliberately threatening and off-putting — in the best sense. It challenges the audience to redefine beauty. Comparable energy can be found at the
“Fashion should never be comfortable. It should force you to see the world differently — even if the ground disappears from under your feet.”
The Collection: What Balenciaga Shows
Despite the extreme staging, the actual collection is surprisingly wearable — at least by Balenciaga standards. The summer line features exaggerated silhouettes, oversized trenchcoats, monochrome looks in earthy tones and black, as well as a mix of materials including nylon, leather and water-repellent fabrics. The German fashion designers in the industry are envious of the consistency with which Demna pursues a vision.
Key Pieces of the Collection
- Oversize trenchcoats in dark brown and black
- Glossy patent boots to the thigh
- Transparent rainwear over bodysuits
- Asymmetrical dresses with mud-texture print
- Chunky platform boots — waterproof
- Monochrome suits in khaki and stone grey
What unites the pieces: they all seem to have been designed for a world in which beauty is created under pressure — literally. Those looking for something similar at the Milan Fashion Week will be disappointed.
Colour and Material Palette
The colour palette is inspired by a post-rain earth palette: deep mocha, slate, petrol, weathered khaki and pure black as a staple. The materials are deliberately industrial — water-repellent, durable, yet processed with a couture-like finish. Even the
Balenciaga Between Scandal and Genius
Balenciaga is used to being in the headlines — not always for the right reasons. The house has faced intense public criticism in recent times, and Demna was on the verge of throwing it all away. The fact that he stayed and presented this show is a statement in itself. The fashion world, represented by editors from Vogue to Dazed, was unanimously impressed.
The comparison to other major houses shows how uniquely positioned Balenciaga is:
| Modemarke | Show Concept | Target Audience | Staging Level |
|---|---|---|---|
| Balenciaga | Performance art, provocative | Avant-garde, streetwear luxury | Extremely high |
| Chanel | Classic, spectacular | Traditional haute couture customers | High |
| Louis Vuitton | Pop art, collaborations | Wide luxury segment | Medium to high |
| Givenchy | Elegant, minimalist | Classic luxury customer | Medium |
| Rick Owens | Dark, sculptural | Fashion insiders, niche | High |
What the table shows: Balenciaga is in a league of its own — more consistent, riskier, louder than the competition. Anyone following the dates of the
For Models: What a Balenciaga Show Means
Walking the Balenciaga runway is considered one of the most coveted engagements in the industry — and one of the most demanding. Models must not only be physically resilient (mud, darkness, uneven floors), but above all bring a certain aura: not exaggerated perfection, but character, presence and the courage to be different.
What requirements models should have
Balenciaga consciously works with a diverse cast — from classic runway figures to unusual faces. Those wondering how to meet the requirements to become a model should know: at Balenciaga, personality and presence often matter more than standard measurements. Nevertheless, a clear posture and runway experience are highly beneficial. The exact model measurements and requirements vary depending on the agency and booking.
- Strong stage presence and self-confidence
- Experience on unconventional runways
- Willingness to participate in extreme productions
- Flexibility with looks and styling
- Professional portfolio —
model portfolio for casting
Those just starting out should know the
Height and diversity at Balenciaga
Balenciaga is consciously embracing diversity — a trend that has taken hold across the entire industry. The
Your Way to Your First Agency
The first step towards the runway leads through a reputable agency. Important: Anyone aiming for a
For an initial orientation, it’s also worth taking a look at the
Ready for the next step? Apply now and start your journey down the runway.
Frequently asked questions about the Balenciaga show and the Fashion Week
What makes the Balenciaga show so special compared to other houses?
Under Demna, Balenciaga stages shows not just as pure product presentations, but as artistic statements. The combination of extreme stage design, social commentary and high-quality collection creates a uniqueness that no other house implements so consistently. The mud show is a perfect example: discomfort and beauty coexist without one cancelling out the other.
Can a beginner take part in a Balenciaga show?
Directly as a beginner? Probably not. Balenciaga usually books through established top agencies and relies on models with proven experience. The way forward involves building a strong portfolio, attending castings with regional agencies and gradually gaining international experience. Most importantly: professional preparation and a reputable agency behind you.
What body measurements are required for a spot on the Balenciaga runway?
Balenciaga has consciously worked with a diverse cast in recent seasons. There are no strict measurement guidelines as with classic couture houses. Nevertheless, an athletic to slim figure and a height of around 175 cm for female models is typical. More important are presence, character and the ability to carry extreme looks without the person disappearing behind them.
Where can I follow the next Fashion Week dates?
The four most important Fashion Weeks take place annually in New York, London, Milan and Paris. You can find the exact dates and highlights in our overviews of the Paris Fashion Week dates, the
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